How to beat adult acne

I know there are many of you out there that are suffering from breakouts and you are well over the age that you thought this would be a problem. I have had my share of trouble with adult acne. Owning a spa, I have had the luxury of an esthetician and multiple treatments at hand but still found it hard to control.


Recently at an ALTA tennis match, I was chatting with one of my fellow teammates and found she was struggling with adult acne as well and both of us are over 40. This conversation prompted me to share how I have learned to beat this unwanted adversary.

A common misconception is that acne only affects teenagers. But more than ever before, adults are suffering with oily and acneic skin conditions. Clinical studies indicate that between 40 and 55 percent of the adult population in the 20-40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin. According to the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, 54% of women older than age 25 have some facial acne, which is most likely attributed to hormonal fluctuations that trigger excess sebum resulting in acne. Acne arising in adulthood is more likely to be inflammatory, with fewer comedones (blackheads) than teenage acne, and with lesions predominantly located around the mouth, chin and jaw line. Likewise, adults often have sensitized skin, or a combination of skin conditions in addition to their acne, which makes treatment more challenging than treatment of teens who generally have a more resilient, uniform oily skin condition. In addition, adult cases of acne are often more persistent than teenage acne, which can be particularly frustrating for those who were spared outbreaks as teenagers.

Contrary to common belief, it’s not poor skin hygiene or bad foods that can be faulted for causing acne. The major acne culprit is the excess accumulation of a fatty substance called sebum that’s produced by the sebaceous glands in our skin. The sebum gets “stuck” and plugs the opening of the glands, causing whiteheads. After the bulging glands break open, they turn into blackheads. Sebum also nourishes the growth of bacteria that normally resides in the skin. Overgrowth of these bacteria then calls the skin’s immune cells into action in an attempt to defeat the bacterial invader, and inflammation and acne develop.  Once healed, acne can leave darkened “footprints” (hyper-pigmentation). It can also cause permanent scarring.
The main stimulus of adult acne is chronic stress. Stress can cause an increase in testosterone, (male hormones) which in turn causes an increase in sebum production and initiate this acne scenario.

After trying everything from Azelaic acid, tretinoin, blue light therapy, neroli oil, and multiple prescriptions from the dermatologists the items listed below are what finally worked for me and I continue to use them today. I am proud to say, I have finally won my battle with adult acne. I hope this works for you too! (Let me clarify that I do not get paid to tout these products or use these products and am not currently a vendor for Dermalogica products-this is a valid testimonial!)

Dermalogica PreCleanse: This is my favorite product ever! Since I have oily/combination skin I have never bought into the oil based cleansers. PreCleanse is a lightweight Olive and Apricot Kernel-based cleansing oil, fortified with Kukui Nut, Borage Seed and Rice Bran oils, that gently liquefies sebum and oil-based debris from the skin’s surface. The water-loving formula enables PreCleanse and oil-based debris to be readily rinsed away without leaving behind any greasy residue. This works great to remove my makeup, even waterproof mascara. Follow up with Dermalogica clearing skin wash.

Dermalogica clearing skin wash: I use this product twice a day, every day. It is a naturally foaming cleanser containing Salicylic Acid which stimulates natural exfoliation, helping to clear impacted follicles and minimize acne formation. It also contains Licorice, Calendula Officinalis Flower, Milk Thistle, Lemon Peel, Arnica Montana Flower, and Bergamot Fruit: an anti-acne blend of botanical extracts.

Dermalogica daily microfoliant: I use this product in the shower every morning after the clearing skin wash. When you have acne it is very tempting to use scrubs that are grainy but you could spread infection. This exfoliant is great because it turns into a paste when you mix it with water before you apply it to your face and neck so it is very gently. Microfoliant is a rice-based enzymepowder that microfoliates dulling debris and instantly leaves skin noticeably smoother and brighter. I have even recommended this product for teenagers and people with KP. (Keratosis pilaris is a common skin condition in which a protein in the skin called keratin forms hard plugs within hair follicles. Very common on the upper arm and thigh area)

Special clearing booster: This is a spot treatment that I use directly on breakouts. Now that I am breakout free I still use this on the areas that are prone to breakouts during times when I know that my hormone levels are high to prevent breakouts. This product goes very far as “smaller than a pea size” covers my entire forehead. This 5% Benzoyl Peroxide concentrate, fortified with Zinc Sulfate, Tea Tree and Sage, eliminates bacteria while helping to accelerate breakout clearing. BP and Tea Tree eliminate breakout-causing bacteria in the follicles and help clear skin. Zinc Sulfate helps eliminate bacteria and regulate sebum production.

Sebum clearing mask: When I had breakouts I used this 2-3 times a week. I now use this once a week as a preventive measure. A cooling, refining and deep cleaning Kaolin and Bentonite clay masque that purifies, absorbs excess surface oil and helps prevent breakouts.

If you are interested in purchasing Dermalogica products you can go to their website and put in your zip code to find a retail location near you or ulta beauty